Y’s
PARIS, October 6, 2003
By Sarah Mower
Having shifted his main collection to a slot during Paris's couture week, Yohji Yamamoto has deputized his secondary line, Y's, to represent him at the ready-to-wear shows. That didn't deter his audience, which was sitting up straight, pens poised, raring to see what new crimp the great innovator would be putting on the season. How about gauzy, droopy white knits and what looked like sweaters, dangling upside down from suspenders, worn as pants?Legs in sleeves notwithstanding, Yamamoto’s floating, A-line asymmetries had the easy, nonaggressive air that has characterized his work from the beginning. Yet as model after model in neutral, wrinkled layers of crispy knit and floppy satin kept wandering down the runway, it became clear that there was not a lot of incisive new thinking going on. Things perked up when he sent out a shot of intense red washed satin, and a gentle version of the season’s shirt-dressing theme; otherwise, underwhelming was the word for it. Sure, Yamamoto is being realistic in showing his accessibly-priced collection now. But in the Paris spotlight, the world still expects more from him than a routine dilution of house standards.
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Spring 2004 Ready-to-Wear
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A
A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein As Four -
B
Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Burberry Prorsum -
C
Calvin Klein Collection Capucci Carolina Herrera Celine Chalayan Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
D
D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
E
Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
F
Fendi FrostFrench -
G
Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang -
I
Imitation of Christ -
J
Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
K
Kenneth Cole New York Kim Jones Krizia -
L
Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
M
Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martine Sitbon Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
N
Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
O
Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paul Smith Peter Som Pierrot Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
R
Rachel Comey Ralph Lauren Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
S
Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
T
Temperley London Tim van Steenbergen Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
U
Undercover -
V
Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
Y
Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Y’s Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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