Maria Cornejo designs for women who prefer sleek and spare over pretty and perky, and her cool, even-tempered Spring collection was a refreshing counterpoint to the season’s plethora of lace and ruffles. Cornejo opened with a series of clean, narrow dresses and skirts in black and white jersey, gently enlivened with inserts and sashes made from pale blue silk.

She limited herself to four colors, but kept the outfits interesting by juxtaposing fabrics like Ultrasuede and charmeuse. Even when the jolts of red came out, in a gently ruched dress, a stretch mini, and a pair of cotton shorts, they seemed more studied than outright sexy. Cornejo’s proportions owe a debt to Japan in general, and designers like Issey Miyake in particular, but she puts her own stamp on things by way of body-conscious cuts and modern fabrics.