Sepulchral lighting, gravel underfoot, the soundtrack from Assault on Precinct 13 ominously pulsing—it was a portentous setting for Ozwald Boateng's debut at Givenchy. Then, ten screens lit up around the room, showing a cartoon directed by Boateng that starred an animated version of himself as the label's superhero savior.

Given that introduction, the clothes that then came down the runway seemed surprisingly safe: navy jackets over tailored jeans, navy pinstripes, a pale-blue three-piece suit, a pea coat in the same shade paired with brick-red trousers, a white trench, and so on. Some models had phrases scrawled on their faces and limbs; one read, "Je suis un mensonge qui dit toujours la verité" (I am a lie that always tells the truth). Not exactly a superhero's motto.