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Jil Sander

MILAN, June 29, 2004
By Tim Blanks
Jil Sander aimed for serenity with her latest men's collection. Her goal was a perfect balance of wardrobe essentials—the ideal shoe, the ideal jacket, the ideal pair of trousers (she favored a luxurious denim with a small roll-up). Enlivening these variations on a theme were the small details: the seductive sheen on a crisply tailored suit or a subtle flash of neon at a waistband. A plethora of pink tones was also part of her rosy vision.

One thing was clear—the Harvard men whose wardrobe she referenced in her fall collection have now grown up and joined the work force. Some of them are on Wall Street, others are training as CPAs, and still others, in their Eisenhower jackets, are working as gas jockeys while they ponder their futures. Sander's idealized take on fifties Americana continues to provide one of the more poignant contemporary visions of the way men could dress.

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