July 01, 2004
Editors were summoned to Jean Paul Gaultier's spring '05 collection via an invitationnot to a fashion show, but to a wedding, at which his male models were to get hitched to each other. Given the ferocious controversy swirling in France around gay marriage, it was a typical Gaultier gesture: jokey but pointed, like the two grooms atop the show's wedding cake finale. Less typical of Gaultier was the presentation itself. Gone were the theatrics of old. Instead, the models strolled down the "aisle" in pairs, one sophisticated, the other rough. Unprepped by hair and makeup, they looked as though they'd just stepped in off the street, their clothes casually mixed and matched. One guy would have on a suit jacket with a pair of rusty jeans, while his partner sported the matching jean jacket with the suit trousers. Layeringknitted tank over T-shirt over long-sleeved topevinced a similar ease, and even Gaultier's signature trench was truncated into a casual bomber. A kilt over trousers, and a couple of skirt-pants, nodded to the hommes fatales of Gaultier's past; but otherwise the collection felt like a commitment to reali.e., wearableclothes.