Photographer Peter Schlesinger should be drawing a royalty from the spring 2005 menswear season. Louis Vuitton designer Marc Jacobs was one of several this season to name-check A Chequered Past, Schlesinger's book capturing the high (and low) life in early seventies London. Then again, Jacobs also mentioned the movie Another Country, as well as that hardy perennial of Brit style, Brideshead Revisited. He hardly needed to specify the latter—the minute a pajama-clad model appeared on the catwalk clutching a teddy bear, it was clear that Oxford's decadently dreaming spires were on the designer's mind.

Under an ivy arbor, Jacobs paraded a lush sequence of aristocratic college classics: a cashmere cricket sweater, college-striped linen trousers, a silk velvet smoking jacket, languid layers of all white or all cream (all you need is a gentleman's gentleman to sponge off the spots). The all important Vuitton accessories included an alligator traveling bag—with matching shoes, of course.