July 03, 2004
The English student, one of spring 2005's biggest fashion influences, achieved apotheosis at the hands of Paul Smith, the designer who's dressed enough young Brits to know. Smith's show saluted "Eton Gods," schoolboys who fancy themselves as rock 'n' roll deities. Chunky ethnic belts with "Appollo" and Zeus picked out in studs underlined the message, but aside from such exotically rough accessories, the modern rock god is a delicate thing. Jackets, shirts, and trousers were noticeably narrowed for a boyish silhouette. The layering of T-shirts, short sleeves, and thin sweaters also had enough of a skinny teen feel that a print of rampant bulls on a blue top felt somehow ironic. Apparently, loyal fans have been wondering where the florals that are such a big part of the Paul Smith story have gone of late. Never fear, they're here! Carnation-printed shirt jackets looked fresh, and there was an orgy of blooms tucked away under all those pinstripes. But the real oomph was reserved for a group of bright jackets embroidered with patterns from Afghan carpets. Now those rocked!