July 02, 2004 Paris
Once absorbed by radical punk icons and slogans, Simons has now shifted his frame of reference to an earlier period: specifically, the moment when Kraftwerk put its pop culture spin on the nexus between man and machine. Using a palette pared to black, white, and shades of pale gray, he expressed his tailoring skill in linear, luxurious suits and coats that had a Gattaca flair. Suspendered stirrup pants made the silhouette even leaner (and topical; with the Olympics looming, it read as a gymnastics reference). Then the leanness exploded, in triple-pleated leather trousers, funnel-necked tops, and huge white coats that floated like angel wings. On that optimistic note, Simons concluded a stunning show that felt like a fresh start for him.