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Viktor & Rolf

PARIS, July 5, 2004
By Tim Blanks
As fashion's premier illusionists, it was only a matter of time before Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren got around to using real magic as their inspiration. The top hat graphic that appeared on their original Monsieur print now has a rabbit popping out of it, along with a fan of cards and other symbols of the prestidigitator's trade. Las Vegas in the fifties, the design duo's dream locale for their spring collection, allowed them to fully exercise their ironic appreciation of all things American. They designed a tuxedo for the working magician, but they also provided him with a full range of slightly twisted leisurewear: peach tennis shorts, denim golf pants (embroidered in red with the rabbit and top hat), and a bowling shirt. Playing with the classics as usual, they cut the tails off a tail coat and offered it as a garment-dyed cotton jacket, with a pocket hidden under the lapel making an ideal cache for a trump card. Prince of Wales silk-linen suits, meanwhile, were sprayed with gold and silver paint to give them a rich metallic sheen. Magic!

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