Yohji Yamamoto claimed inspiration from French singer Serge Gainsbourg, "an icon of a good-looking French male," as the designer said after the show. And Gainsbourg's signature mix of formal and casual—pinstripe jacket over evening shirt, worn loose, over cropped denims with huge cuffs—was much in evidence.

But another star also made his presence felt. Yamamoto recently designed all the clothes for Elton John's Las Vegas sojourn (on and offstage), and there was an echo of that gig in the shirts with shredded fronts, in the striped robes that would be ideal for backstage relaxing, and in the tracksuit detailing on trousers and tops (Yamamoto has created dozens of tracksuits for the singer). Garment-dyed suits in palest blue, aqua, gray, and beige had the worn, slightly shapeless feel of vintage Yamamoto. Much more striking was a black linen suit topstitched in red, with matching red buttons and buttonholes. It was enough to bring out the inner dandy in any man—let alone in clotheshorses like Serge and Elton.