July 04, 2004
Stefano Pilati began his first menswear presentation for Yves Saint Laurent by projecting iconic images from the sixties and seventies of the house's namesake and founderthe same pictures that line the building's entry halls. Then, followed a collection that was clearly shaped by this idealized vision of a Frenchman's stylemost obviously in the slim silhouette with the strong shoulder and in the bold colors, like cobalt blue, peachy pink, and deep army green (the Italian designer favored more-coordinated combinations than the clashing combos preferred by Saint Laurent). Pilati's respect for the YSL legacy shone through in classics like pea coats, safari tops, and little military jackets, as well as in Liberty-like floral prints from the label's archives. He rendered these more modern by softening and lightening themall without giving away the undeniable strength of that signature silhouette.