Unlike many labels, the Swiss house of Akris doesn't use ear-splitting music or crazy styling to jazz up its understated urban staples. This season did, though, see a small yet significant change: Instead of showing at its chic Paris HQ, the house chose the Carrousel du Louvre, the location favored by the likes of Chanel and Valentino. Quiet and refined or not, designer Albert Kriemler just may be trying to edge Akris into the spotlight.

Either way, Kriemler's spring collection was as clean and fresh as an alpine morning. He referenced the innocence and purity of his roots via billowing, snow-white linen peasant blouses and flared cotton skirts. But Switzerland is also home to some really hefty bank accounts, so the Akris woman is well versed in the language of international moneyed chic: Witness a white cotton double-faced trenchcoat with tulle edges over supernarrow trousers, or a white linen bustier with a full organdy skirt etched in shell-like swirls of cotton. From there on in, the collection embraced some of the season's key colors (sage green, sea blue, sweet pink) and gotta-have-'em pieces (cuffed shorts, little jackets, billowing skirts).

Kriemler closed with lightweight tulle evening dresses in shades of taupe and beige; while some were worn with heels, it was the few that came out with flat thong sandals that looked most in step with spring 2005.