Akris
PARIS, October 8, 2004
By Mark Holgate
Unlike many labels, the Swiss house of Akris doesn't use ear-splitting music or crazy styling to jazz up its understated urban staples. This season did, though, see a small yet significant change: Instead of showing at its chic Paris HQ, the house chose the Carrousel du Louvre, the location favored by the likes of Chanel and Valentino. Quiet and refined or not, designer Albert Kriemler just may be trying to edge Akris into the spotlight.Either way, Kriemler's spring collection was as clean and fresh as an alpine morning. He referenced the innocence and purity of his roots via billowing, snow-white linen peasant blouses and flared cotton skirts. But Switzerland is also home to some really hefty bank accounts, so the Akris woman is well versed in the language of international moneyed chic: Witness a white cotton double-faced trenchcoat with tulle edges over supernarrow trousers, or a white linen bustier with a full organdy skirt etched in shell-like swirls of cotton. From there on in, the collection embraced some of the season's key colors (sage green, sea blue, sweet pink) and gotta-have-'em pieces (cuffed shorts, little jackets, billowing skirts).
Kriemler closed with lightweight tulle evening dresses in shades of taupe and beige; while some were worn with heels, it was the few that came out with flat thong sandals that looked most in step with spring 2005.
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Spring 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alistair Carr Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester As Four Ashish -
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Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Buddhist Punk Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Charles Anastase Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eley Kishimoto Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Gardem Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Perry Ellis Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen

















