As Four
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 11, 2004
By Laird Borrelli
When As Four first stormed the scene, it was hard to know what to make of this engaging gaggle of designers, with their spiral-leg trousers and fondness for lamé. With their spring collection, though, they showed more maturity than ever.Their aim, designer Gabi said, was to be "generous—to open things up." This show accomplished that, despite its excessive length. There was also plenty of humor, as seen in the "gotahaveballs" pieces—one example being a dress suspended from a necklace of charmeuse-wrapped balls. They even attacked the tank top to elegant effect—showing it as a big floaty circle in white jersey, worn with shorts, or as an easy top in nude silk charmeuse, with a trailing train of flowers. Ditto bathing suits and drop-dead dresses that could be worn as easily by an offbeat starlet like Christina Ricci as by a member of As Four's eccentric style tribe.
What was most striking about the collection was the American feeling to it all. Their "bowraptinis" (read: rompers) were in the tradition of sportswear pioneer Claire McCardell, and Giorgio Sant'Angelo would have approved of their tunics. "We wanted to celebrate the easiness and movement of American dressing while keeping our identity," Gabi said. Mission accomplished.
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Spring 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alistair Carr Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester As Four Ashish -
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Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Buddhist Punk Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Charles Anastase Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eley Kishimoto Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Gardem Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Perry Ellis Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen
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