Boudicca
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 22, 2004
By Sarah Mower
Boudicca is one of the few labels that believes in something beyond the joy of seeing lovely clothes, and its shows are always intense, out-there spectacles—this one featured dark, defiant stomping through black cinders. But though designers Zowie Broach and Brian Kirkby might flinch to hear it, it is simply the bold sophistication of their work that sets them head and shoulders above anyone else in London.For spring, tailoring was razored to the ribs and strong in the shoulder. Voluminous white blouses had dramatic collars and asymmetric swagger. Chiffon dresses came devised with trailing scarves and panels of overlapping pleats that refused to obey the logic of a hemline. These are obsessions the couple has always harbored, and in their own Goth-minded way, they admitted this collection was a step toward consolidating the rock-solid identity the label needs in order to reach new markets. "It was about the ghost of autumn 2004 haunting summer 2005," Broach said. Strip away the complex, tied-on extras, and underneath there's a collection of extraordinary pieces that, on a rail, will hold their own next to anything in Boudicca's home town—and beyond.
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Spring 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alistair Carr Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester As Four Ashish -
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Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Buddhist Punk Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Charles Anastase Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eley Kishimoto Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Gardem Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Perry Ellis Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen
