October 03, 2004 Paris
The question is, of course, what all of this added to the clothes. The answer: precisely nothing. Perhaps Anastase simply wanted to add some character to the proceedingswhy else tie a china cup to the sleeve of a jacket?but his collection worked best when he kept things straightforward and simple, such as the strappy evening dresses that closed the show. There's a lot of interest in the 25-year-old Anastase right now, partly because young French designers with potential are few and far between (no one has really come through since Nicolas Ghesquière), and partly because Anastase is a fashion illustrator of some repute. (He has drawn for A.P.C. and Calvin Klein, and a CD cover for Beck is in the works.) Yet the transition from drawing to designing is tricky: just look at Julie Verhoeven's short tenure at Gibo. For the time being, however, Anastase is worth watching.