October 06, 2004 Paris
The real change, of course, is that Celine has swapped Kors' American vision of sportswear for Menichetti's European one. It means that casual and often flamboyant luxury has been replaced with a far more sober and experimental vision. Menichetti pretty much stripped everything down to a wardrobe of streamlined and slightly futuristic basics: A-line coats, cocoon skirts, and boxy jackets. All of this came in a palette that looked like it might have been created in a laboratory, with saturated shades of fuchsia, citrine yellow, and lapis bluean effect heightened by digitally manipulated floral prints.
Perhaps that was as far as the experiment should have gone: No woman needs a striped sweater with an odd circular cutout on the back, or tricky pleating on a skirt, or strange, space-age headbands. Menichetti's simplest offeringa white tank top and wide ivory herringbone tuxedo pantsis a far safer bet as a template for the new Celine.