Francisco Costa is settling in at Calvin Klein. Taking over from an icon is an unenviable task, and the creative director has had a couple of bumpy moments in the past three seasons. But with this collection, Costa is moving in the right direction: continuing Klein's theme of simple, sensuous sportswear while putting his own stamp on the look.

But "stamp" might be too strong a word. Costa sent his dewy-browed models out to a soundtrack of plaintive acoustic pop, rather than the sometimes-jarring electronica or rap of yore. And the message was luxurious softness, from the fine knits worn atop lean skirts or pants cropped just above the ankle, to the fluid jerseys done in body-conscious dresses, to supple coats and jackets made from pale lambskin bonded to gray cotton knit.

Sometimes, it got a bit too soft; fashion is clearly loosening its look this season, but Costa veered into downright shapeless territory with some of the boxy tops and long jersey dresses. Odd colors popped up, too, like a Tropicana-bright orange jersey gown. But a fluttery scarf dress, and some of the color-blocked gowns he sent out at the end, looked just right. Costa has more to do to truly merge his sensibility with Klein's mammoth history, but this was his most confident outing yet.