Cook, though, is not the newest of the new, and that's all to the better. This is her eighth season since leaving Central Saint Martins, and she's had time to develop a girlish, though not unbearably cute, personality with some original twists. That comes through in the way she might add a detail of a knotted hemline in a soft tulip skirt, or scatter a vaguely Art Nouveau print of foliage, moths, and birds on a white lawn pinafore.
In a season when pretty dresses and femininity are so ubiquitous, Cook did well to avoid retro referencing and clichéd frilliness. She leavened her look with a few cropped sweats and wide-leg cuffed pants that hit an attractively practical note. There were a couple of odder notions (jersey jumpsuits with baggy bottoms, anyone?), but for the most part, this small collection hit a good note.