September 20, 2004 London
Gardem takes a gentle, feminine approach to post-deconstructionism. Using light layers of brown crinkled silk, washed leather, fine cotton, and gray sweatshirting, Demerdjian creates easy pieces meant for do-it-yourself assemblages. He showed various combinations of pedal pushers, multi-fabric fluted skirts, patchwork dresses, bolero vests, abbreviated biker jackets, and sweet smocked peasant blouses, all with a drifty, cool attitude. That, of course, makes Gardem a member of the Rick Owens/Ann Demeulemeester tribe of rockin' fashion grungebut, interestingly, without the angst. Demerdjian needs to edit: Half the numbers would have doubled his show's impact. But as a debut, it hit the mark.