Gardem
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 21, 2004
By Sarah Mower
In its mission to establish itself as launch pad of young design, London is rolling out the welcome mat for international talent. The first arrival, with a little help from the British Fashion Council, is Garen Demerdjian, the 29-year-old Lebanon-born, Paris-based designer whose Gardem label has been stirring up the independent-boutique crowd for several seasons.Gardem takes a gentle, feminine approach to post-deconstructionism. Using light layers of brown crinkled silk, washed leather, fine cotton, and gray sweatshirting, Demerdjian creates easy pieces meant for do-it-yourself assemblages. He showed various combinations of pedal pushers, multi-fabric fluted skirts, patchwork dresses, bolero vests, abbreviated biker jackets, and sweet smocked peasant blouses, all with a drifty, cool attitude. That, of course, makes Gardem a member of the Rick Owens/Ann Demeulemeester tribe of rockin' fashion grunge—but, interestingly, without the angst. Demerdjian needs to edit: Half the numbers would have doubled his show's impact. But as a debut, it hit the mark.
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Spring 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alistair Carr Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester As Four Ashish -
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Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Buddhist Punk Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Charles Anastase Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eley Kishimoto Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Gardem Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Sari Gueron Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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