Gardem

LONDON, September 21, 2004
By Sarah Mower
In its mission to establish itself as launch pad of young design, London is rolling out the welcome mat for international talent. The first arrival, with a little help from the British Fashion Council, is Garen Demerdjian, the 29-year-old Lebanon-born, Paris-based designer whose Gardem label has been stirring up the independent-boutique crowd for several seasons.

Gardem takes a gentle, feminine approach to post-deconstructionism. Using light layers of brown crinkled silk, washed leather, fine cotton, and gray sweatshirting, Demerdjian creates easy pieces meant for do-it-yourself assemblages. He showed various combinations of pedal pushers, multi-fabric fluted skirts, patchwork dresses, bolero vests, abbreviated biker jackets, and sweet smocked peasant blouses, all with a drifty, cool attitude. That, of course, makes Gardem a member of the Rick Owens/Ann Demeulemeester tribe of rockin' fashion grunge—but, interestingly, without the angst. Demerdjian needs to edit: Half the numbers would have doubled his show's impact. But as a debut, it hit the mark.

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