Forget all prior associations between Wolfgang Joop and heavy-handed mid- to late-nineties antics. The designer, who sold his eponymous label three years ago, returned to New York this season with a collection, Wunderkind Couture, that was an exercise in modern lightness. Described as "luxury ready-to-wear," the line runs from casual looks (a sheer wrap dress worn over a white tank sheath) and into evening, where the rose-print dresses overlaid with black were unexpectedly dramatic. Blazers and pantsuits aplenty will please executive women, and the fashion-forward will eat up the coats and jackets in gold and silver. When he keeps it light, Joop showed he still has a Midas touch.