September 19, 2004 London
Sound grim? The stark geometry of the classic German art-house aesthetic normally looks better on furniture and posters than clothes. Mercifully, however, Saunders is not a literalist. He melded bold lines, circles, and a palette of monochromes, teal, blue, orange, and yellow into shapessimple tanks and fluted skirts, to start withthat flatter the body. His optical effectsin printing, burnt-out, or intarsia knitmay be technically impressive, but the clever part is the way he combines them with a feel for sexy wearability.
Learning from his mistakes of last seasona rewind to severe eighties power-dressingSaunders went back to fluidity for his finale. That produced a sequence of floor-sweeping looks that came across as great options for young red-carpet dressing.