Miguel Adrover
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 10, 2004
By Laird Borrelli
Miguel Adrover's spring/fall 2005 collection started out like gangbusters, right from the first look—a navy suit tailored with the precision for which he's known. That was followed by more classic suitings and then two lovely gowns, one in a woolly windowpane, another in ribboned chiffon. The show could have stopped there; Adrover, in about five looks, had demonstrated his talent. But the show went on—and on, and on, for almost 90 more looks.It's not that he didn't have a story to tell; this season, the narrative-loving designer explored the glories of the Old West, from the cowboys and Indians, the beauty of native craft, even the cost of imperialism, and put it on the runway with a powerful (if excessively long) fusion of design, styling, and music. Adrover has always been passionate about his craft, experimenting with odd materials and unexpected volume, and this season he showed that skill in an expertly balanced quilt-front skirt, and a smocked and pleated gingham dress. He can also do straight sportswear—as seen in the totem suits, duster coats, and trenches. But just as the show wound down, the designer himself walked out in a T-shirt printed with "Anyone see a backer?", and the thread of the tale was broken. As much as he embraces American culture, Adrover's always positioned himself as an outsider with no desire to play the fashion game; with talent like his, let's hope there's a happy ending in his future.
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Spring 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alistair Carr Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester As Four Ashish -
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Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Buddhist Punk Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Charles Anastase Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eley Kishimoto Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Gardem Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Perry Ellis Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen
