Roberto Menichetti has a varied history, including a Burberry stint, and he's about to start as the designer for Celine. Last season, he unveiled his own line at a small presentation, but decided to amp it up for spring with a formal runway show. The collection was brightly colored: Menichetti successfully paired kelly and lime greens, persimmon and tomato reds, teals and grays. He did so particularly well on a deep-orange gown with blue-gray back panels and tails.

The designer demonstrated his technical skill with draped tops and dresses that fell open like origami, and his love for technologically advanced fabrics showed in a flock print (based on his logo), applied with high-frequency thermal pressure, and leather cut to resemble eyelet. But the collection stumbled in the details, like the cufflinks used to hold pleats and drapes throughout, the filmy breast-baring tops suspended with delicate chains, and the excess of lacing. All that busyness detracted from the otherwise elegant proportions.