Missoni

MILAN, September 29, 2004
By Hamish Bowles
To the coolest Coldplay soundtrack, Angela Missoni sent out her prettiest collection to date—with her daughter Margherita, eschewing the front row to sit cross-legged on the floor, clearly in the role of muse. Wearing a fluttering thirties-inspired chiffon frock, electric-blue satin high heels, and a necklace of turquoise beads with purse to match, the 21-year-old exemplified the charming, eclectic feel of her mother's show.

Missoni played with a delectable fruit theme, from a palette of apple green, banana, and watermelon, to fruit appliqués on skinny knit cardigans and tank tops, through crochet choker necklaces and garland belts. There was even a playful nod to Judith Leiber, in the form of a sparkling, green apple evening purse.

In the spirit of the season, everything was part of a thrift-inspired mix. Boho combinations included a skinny-rib melon cardigan shrugged over a thirties chiffon garden-party dress, its elaborate seams traced with metallic knit; a cropped jacket worn with a flirty skirt, its jacquard godets in a contrasting color; and a crochet camisole top over the first Missoni jeans—in strawberry or vanilla, as well as French navy. With an M picked out in stitching on a back pocket, the pieces from this denim range, which includes microshorts, well-fitting seventies-flavor jeans, and shapely flying jackets, look set to figure high on any fashionista's must-have list.

Missoni captured the lightness and fragility of this thistledown spring, with Maypole-striped pieces, free-flying panels, and even fringed evening separates and dresses. Seen en masse, as the models took to the runway for their finale, they suggested the flutter of a cloud of butterflies descending on a ripening orchard.

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