October 08, 2004 Paris
Nilsson's vision of spring, then, included both a slim top-stitched taffeta skirtsuit and a more casual combination of purple cardigan, scarf-print silk blouse, and above-the-knee skirt, its hem injected with a touch of volume. The standouts were the jackets (cut close to the body, with narrow shoulders, high armholes, and cropped sleeves) and dressesin particular, one that was draped, bloused, and belted, the other a sweet confection of cotton, beading, and eyelet embroidery.
This was a somewhat repetitive show that would have benefited from a stricter edit. But the handwork on displaythe embroideries, the lace trims, the ribboned lacewas typical of the love and respect that young designers at established French houses are now showing for couturelike details and finishes. Long may it last.