Perry Ellis
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 8, 2004
By Janet Ozzard
The artful mix is a hallmark of modern fashion, but it can be a perilous approach. One too many vintage references and the whole effort crumbles into thrift store pastiche. There is no danger of that happening at Perry Ellis, where Patrick Robinson showed yet another strong collection that showcased his skill at making oddball combinations work as persuasively sophisticated sportswear.Once again, Robinson wisely opted for a small walk-through presentation, with just 18 looks on a band of fair-haired models, all bee-stung lips and Pre-Raphaelite tresses. He merged retro and modern, regal with humble, and played strict masculine tailoring (a skill he refined while working for Giorgio Armani) against giggly, sweet femininity. Robinson put a matelassé mustard bolero atop jean-tailored khakis, or a filmy black ruched blouse against a dense jacquard pencil skirt, or a royal-blue top with lime-green beading over a taupe skirt covered in ribbon. Workaday seersucker and polished cotton countered richer materials like jacquard, velvet, and chiffon, while shapes were simple and wearable: plenty of variations on the pencil skirt, neat full-leg trousers in crisp fabrics, and tops cut close but not skintight, accented with a touch of seventies-era peasant chic in the pintucking and embroidered touches. Plenty of designers can throw together some pieces and call it fashion; the difference (and the delight) at Perry Ellis is watching Robinson turn that into a realistic, wearable proposition.
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Spring 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alistair Carr Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester As Four Ashish -
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Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Buddhist Punk Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Charles Anastase Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eley Kishimoto Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Etro -
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Gardem Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Sari Gueron Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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