September 09, 2004 New York
Phi's even had its first designer turnoveroriginal creative director Tim Garland left in July after one season, handing the reins to design director Andreas Melbostad. But there was no sign of bumpiness on spring's runway: Melbostad segued seamlessly from fall's urban-goth look to a more delicate collection that still reflected Phi's luxurious take on tough chic. He kept the palette limited to black, ivory, and pinky nude, and used fabrics ranging from tissue-weight silk and cotton to stiff linen canvas and supple kangaroo skin. There were well-cut trousers, silky bare camisoles, and fluid knits, and some standout boxy bombers, pea coats, and trenches. And the fluttery georgette and chiffon dresses and gowns, with just enough detailing, did due penance for some clunky sarong shorts and bubble skirts.