In his second season for Pollini—the company that made its name with riding boots in the seventies—Rifat Ozbek was thinking about modern maharanis. Updating the Tibetan theme of his first show, he described this collection as "more about cocktail pieces" and took a dressy, decorative approach, showing luxe leather blousons, sequin-embellished jackets, and skimpy printed dresses and skirts.

Ozbek struck a refreshing note with his opening silhouette, a sleeveless orange leather cutaway blouson with a slim georgette floor-length skirt; variations on the look ended with a full-on evening top in silver and gold over a long skirt in dusty-blue shot silk. In between, ethnic references were Westernized in forties-style flower-garland and raindrop prints, which were made into bias dresses and trailing scarves, and short sheaths done in computerized ikat patterns.

Whom, though, is this collection really aimed at? Ozbek's softer styles might appeal to a younger woman, but there's something about his stiffer jackets, with their square shoulders and the way they hit the hip, that says "older."