September 11, 2004 New York
In a season filled with throw-it-together thrift store dressing, Mouret's crisp spring collection looked all the fresher. That's not to say it was devoid of retro references. The theme was "Belles de Jour," and swingy jackets with three-quarter sleeves and wide necklines atop pencil skirts certainly summoned the proper cool of Catherine Deneuve. But the designer kept everything contemporaryand let out that suppressed sensualitywith sexy, body-conscious cuts, languid silk shirts, and sheer knits, and a color palette based around chilly grays, yellow, mint green, and turquoise. Even tricky metallic fabrics emerged elegant but subdued, swathed in organza and made up into gleaming little cocktail dresses. When it comes to crossing the Atlantic in style, Mouret gives the new Queen Mary II a run for her money.