October 07, 2004 Paris
Given the change-hungry, unsparingly critical Parisian arena, Owens is right to move his aesthetic along. But there's always risk in change, and his first experiments with heavier, more-luxe fabrics were puzzling. Things were much better when he kept them light. His new palette, which included shades of pink, white, burnt orange, and cinnamon worked quite beautifullyespecially the slim, bias-cut, vaguely thirties georgette dresses, nipped and tucked here and there for a hip sort of asymmetry. The sheer white tulle-stuffed bomber, and the delicate fan-pleating he pieced into some of his jackets and skirts, also brought in a new, even romantic, feeling. His ragged-edged shorts, cut like slouchy men's trousers, felt right for the season. But when they were worn by skinny youths who staggered perversely around in six-inch platform boots with a lot of white chest and hairy leg on show? Lord, help us!