Looking gloss-lipped and makeup-free, and with their blown-out hair whipping behind them, Donatella Versace's women made a brisk, clean, confidently polished entry into spring. Whatever the seasonal notion—the program notes insisted there was an "underwater" inspiration—the most vital point to bubble up from this presentation was its focus. This was Versace concentrating on what she and the house have always done best: sexy, draped jersey dressing, racily classic pantsuits, and red-carpet paparazzi stoppers.

Casting her mind back to her brother Gianni's heyday, Donatella revived the bold, multicolored silk scarf prints that he used chiefly to make into shirts. For spring, she reframed them with vivid coral patterns—not just for shirts, but also for playful leather-trimmed bags and deep-pile terry dressing gowns (excellent ammo for maximum poolside impact).

For the most part—save a couple of meanders—this was a high-powered performance that retrieved something of the force of the old Versace days. Dropping the eternal rock-chick stance in favor of a more reserved, upscale womanliness is—at least for the moment—looking like a good way to go.