October 03, 2004 Paris
It was a meandering journey between that and the impressive, elegantly twisted black silk plissé eveningwear that closed the show. First came some austere zippered knee-length glazed-linen dresses with mesh-and-patent sneakers. Then followed many variations on his familiar black pantsuits, now done with sweeping portrait necklines and asymmetric baggy, drop-crotch trousers. (Admittedly extreme, but a nod nevertheless to trends that have been building in more mainstream collections.)
Passages in geranium red and dusty sage came and went as Yamamoto essayed various ideas about tunics and pantssometimes fused into a single garment and lightened with lace inserts. But just as the tune seemed in danger of losing its audience, he circled back, developing the Madame Grès thought in a spectacular way. Densely packed pleats, sometimes braided, were wrapped and coiled into décolleté bodices, then set free to fan into elegant loops and trails. Filtered through an admiration of fifties' grand couture eveningwear, it was an innovative ending to an extended riff on modern femininity.