If you can hardly put a cigarette paper between Rick Owens' ready-to-wear and the look of his Revillon fur collection, that's OK by him. "My plan is to do what feels right to me, and then it'll take on a life of its own," he said. In other words, he's wrapping great big tubular chinchilla collars around the necks of pilled-cashmere blanket coats, carving sable into his forward-slanted jacket shapes, and tying on shrugs and mink-lined crocodile scarves with plenty of rock 'n' roll attitude.

In his own way, Owens is adding a touch of old-school Parisian glamour to the collection, fastening his signature asymmetric pieces with the odd washed-satin bow, and researching and refining archive techniques that work lightness into the fur. He's also growing the collection. For fall, it includes laundered-faille puffers, bunchy cord coats with a slept-in look, his favorite Munster-style wedge boots, and a couple of his sexy-cool tied-on halter evening gowns. None of this is for people who want their furs, or anything else they wear, to radiate status, but that's the point: You're in Owens' gang, or you're not.