The Velvet Underground's "Sunday Morning" drifted through sculptor Antoine Bourdelle's sun-dappled studio as Ann Demeulemeester's spring show—her first for men in Paris—got under way. These were clothes for a lazy morning after: Just drag on whatever's closest and layer it up.

Demeulemeester described the look as one of "poetic anarchy," perhaps partially referring to the dusty pink color she'd added to her usual monochrome palette. "How can a sculptor wear pink?" she wondered. One might equally wonder how a sculptor would feel in some of the trousers the designer showed, especially the cropped long johns. These were worn with long, droopy jackets (except when they were unnaturally shrunken), and long, droopy tops of varying lengths. A capacious white suit with tie-waisted trousers offered a flicker of elegance among the prevailing languor, and what looked like a pale-blue lab coat also stood out. The outfits for evening—like a shrunken black jacket over an elongated tuxedo shirt—seemed like something Uriah Heep might choose for his next walk down the red carpet.