Ann Demeulemeester
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, July 7, 2005
By Tim Blanks
The Velvet Underground's "Sunday Morning" drifted through sculptor Antoine Bourdelle's sun-dappled studio as Ann Demeulemeester's spring showher first for men in Parisgot under way. These were clothes for a lazy morning after: Just drag on whatever's closest and layer it up.Demeulemeester described the look as one of "poetic anarchy," perhaps partially referring to the dusty pink color she'd added to her usual monochrome palette. "How can a sculptor wear pink?" she wondered. One might equally wonder how a sculptor would feel in some of the trousers the designer showed, especially the cropped long johns. These were worn with long, droopy jackets (except when they were unnaturally shrunken), and long, droopy tops of varying lengths. A capacious white suit with tie-waisted trousers offered a flicker of elegance among the prevailing languor, and what looked like a pale-blue lab coat also stood out. The outfits for eveninglike a shrunken black jacket over an elongated tuxedo shirtseemed like something Uriah Heep might choose for his next walk down the red carpet.
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Spring 2006 Menswear
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Adam Kimmel Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Ann Demeulemeester -
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Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Chalayan Cloak Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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Emporio Armani Etro -
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Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Harmon Hermès -
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Issey Miyake -
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Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Keanan Duffty Kenneth Cole New York Kris Van Assche -
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Louis Vuitton -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu -
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Neil Barrett -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Rachel Comey Raf Simons Ralph Lauren Roberto Cavalli Rykiel Homme -
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Thom Browne Tommy Hilfiger -
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Valentino Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent







