September 11, 2005 New York
After that striking image, the veldt was more or less confined to the leather-and-canvas desert boots and the detailing on a field jacket. It was much more the lean, mean rock dandy who fired Plokhov's imagination. The formal touches on jackets, trousers, and shirts (including piping on lapels, satin striping on trouser legs, covered buttons, contrasting collar and cuffs) gave the collection a gothic tinge, even more so because of the shadowy palette. The main relief from black and charcoal was a decadent green he called vetiver, which looked appropriately seductive in a blouson as fitted as a fencing jacket.
Actually, everything was closely tailored, except for trousers that were diagonally pleated to create volumesomewhat reminiscent of Raf Simons's futuristic experiments in cutting. They looked incongruous, given that a pre-show Plokhov declared, "I want clothes to look worn, like you've found them in your grandfather's closet." So the yarn in a white double-breasted cardigan was aesthetically unraveling in places, and those desert boots were scrunched down. All these antidotes to formality were in keeping with Plokhov's conviction that modern dressing means eclecticism: you might wear one of his jackets with a Gap T-shirt and a pair of jeans.