Comme des Garçons
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, July 6, 2005
By
The resurgence of rock has had a creeping influence on spring menswear, to the point that even Rei Kawakubo acknowledged it in her collection for Comme des Garçons. Ever a law unto herself, though, she focused not on the current crop of English pop dandies but on what she called "real rock 'n' roll," in the form of the Rolling Stones.So the band's famous lips-'n'-tongue logo (fashioned by Andy Warhol after Mick Jagger's own) was splashed in an endless set of repetitions—akin to Warhol's own work with multiple images—over trousers, shirts, sneakers, and CdG's signature shrunken or stretched jackets. (All of these were done in patterns ranging from checks to polka dots, and through a full complement of textures.) Another print featured the band's autographs, also endlessly repeated. And a group of nylon workout wear was appliquéd with the words "DNA," "Omega 3," and "Anti-oxidant"—a tribute, perhaps, to the rejuvenating effects of rock as demonstrated by the aging Strolling Bones themselves. (The shaggy, shambling models, on the other hand, were very much of the current London moment.) The color scheme throughout was a pop-bright farrago of lurid reds and blues.
In keeping with Kawakubo's philosopher-of-fashion status, the show might have passed for a meditation on the power of branding, or perhaps the nature of fame, but with Mick's consort L'Wren Scott in the front row and a new Stones tour on the way, conjecture was inevitable. Comme to dress Strollers? Stay tuned.
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