Dolce & Gabbana
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, June 27, 2005
By Tim Blanks
A Dolce & Gabbana show is now such a reliable proposition that you can practically close your eyes and predict what's next. This may not be such a great thing for an audience looking for a kick-start in the outlandish heat of Milan's summer (especially with the amphetamine pace of the show draining any remaining oxygen from the air), but Domenico and Stefano's giant global audience will undoubtedly be reassured to learn that the boys are sticking to their successful formula. So spring 2006 offered another day in the life of a Dolce man: the lethal mean-business tailoring (with jacket waists now so suppressed it's a wonder they don't rise up in rebellion); the embroidered denims slung oh-so-low, distressed to within an inch of their lives and worn with campy T-shirts (Pepsi and Portofino!); the selection of sexy workout clothes (a Fight Club motif dominated this season); and the closing tableau of eveningwear (this time completely in white).All of the above was mounted on the pneumatically masculine silhouette that is the Dolce & Gabbana signature, so it was something of a surprise to hear a post-show Stefano say that the duo had the androgynous rakes of London's New Rock Wave on their minds when they were designingin particular, Mr. Kate Moss's band Babyshambles. If Pete Doherty were truly to rock Dolce & Gabbana's world, then we might see some real thrills.
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Spring 2006 Menswear
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Adam Kimmel Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Ann Demeulemeester -
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Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Collection Chalayan Cloak Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Dior Homme DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duckie Brown -
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Emporio Armani Etro -
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Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Harmon Hermès -
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Issey Miyake -
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Jil Sander John Bartlett John Galliano John Varvatos Junya Watanabe -
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Keanan Duffty Kenneth Cole New York Kris Van Assche -
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Louis Vuitton -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu -
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Neil Barrett -
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Patrik Ervell Paul Smith Perry Ellis Prada Pringle of Scotland -
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Rachel Comey Raf Simons Ralph Lauren Roberto Cavalli Rykiel Homme -
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Thom Browne Tommy Hilfiger -
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Valentino Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf -
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Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent







