June 28, 2005
Dean and Dan Caten may well have seen the light last season, but the stud clearly dominates the saint in their fashion canon (although one model did kiss his rosary at the end of the catwalk). Their latest show dressed a posse of bunkhouse boys in the twins' trademark low-slung denims and second-skin shirts. The heavy-on-the-cojones swagger needed to master all those dropped crotches did indeed suggest that Dsquared²'s rough riders had just dismounted after days in the saddle. One cowboy felt compelled to strip for a sponge bath. And that wasn't the only hint of Deadwood. A leather apron looked ideal for the town blacksmith. A pristine white suit was tailor-made for the local preacher. And the toothpick-chewin' models had an ornery nonchalance that suggested that the Catens could probably elicit a convincing performance from a piece of
well, dead wood. The Western theme was carried through in tiny waistcoats (one was merely a denim bib, another carried Indian embroidery on washed suede), a floral poplin shirt, waxed leathers and, of course, cowboy hats and boots. And though the evening looksshantung trousers and bugle-beaded shirtsseemed to break with the frontier spirit, their all-blackness had a villainous glamour that would have worked a wonder for Lee Van Cleef, the original man in black.