Harmon
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 10, 2005
By
Just because Andrew Harmon claims John and Yoko as an influence on his new collection doesn't mean he's turned all political. It's not their pro-peace activism, it's their white suits Harmon's in love with—for much the same reason he's partial to the look of the Rolling Stones and their women during that early-seventies exile in the South of France.The spirit of decadent, dressed-up-in-the-daytime dandyism in Harmon's spring clothes was New York's clearest expression yet of the "dressy casual" bandwagon that began picking up steam in Europe. The designer showed a satin-lapelled tuxedo waistcoat over a languidly elongated striped top and jeans and a silk piqué bib-front shirt paired with cotton shorts. He likes to luxe up utilitarian fabrics such as canvas, linen, and gabardine, and it worked particularly well here. A satin-piped jacket and striped, cuffed trousers, both in linen, looked rich, as did a gab trench. All the shirts suggested evening in fabrics and details, and even a touch as simple as a cuff on jeans added a more formal flourish.
Though the Flying Lizards' deeply ironic version of "Money" played in the background when a cotton singlet decorated with a large, glittery dollar sign made its appearance, a post-show Harmon sounded sincere when he extolled the virtues of the seventies' good life—as embodied by a dead rock star's white suit.
see all designers ›
ERROR:
