September 09, 2005 New York
The spirit of decadent, dressed-up-in-the-daytime dandyism in Harmon's spring clothes was New York's clearest expression yet of the "dressy casual" bandwagon that began picking up steam in Europe. The designer showed a satin-lapelled tuxedo waistcoat over a languidly elongated striped top and jeans and a silk piqué bib-front shirt paired with cotton shorts. He likes to luxe up utilitarian fabrics such as canvas, linen, and gabardine, and it worked particularly well here. A satin-piped jacket and striped, cuffed trousers, both in linen, looked rich, as did a gab trench. All the shirts suggested evening in fabrics and details, and even a touch as simple as a cuff on jeans added a more formal flourish.
Though the Flying Lizards' deeply ironic version of "Money" played in the background when a cotton singlet decorated with a large, glittery dollar sign made its appearance, a post-show Harmon sounded sincere when he extolled the virtues of the seventies' good lifeas embodied by a dead rock star's white suit.