The Hermès show opened with a burst of sonic energy, courtesy of the Kinks' "You Really Got Me." It was somewhat incongruous in this context—the label epitomizes a certain kind of casual bourgeois dressiness—but it did highlight a slight '60s edge to the collection. This was visible in the trimness of the silhouette; the pointed shoes; a modernist print called "mecano" on shirts and knit polos; and another print, of baroque swirls, that suggested one of the decade's rock dandies.

Designer Véronique Nichanian's flair for detail lent a distinctive luxurious flourish to items like a pale pink polo—here with its neckline edged in pink satin, the accompanying gray trousers also with a pink satin stripe down the leg. And however butch the program notes made the palette sound (the first look featured a velvet cardigan in "clay" and a pair of cotton/linen trousers in "storm"), that kind of preciousness dominated the collection. A butter-soft suede blouson, for example, was combined with a pair of tidy jeans (complete with croc belt) and a smart pair of loafers. Elsewhere, Nichanian pushed things a little with suede polos and a louche evening look that featured a flesh-toned silk shirt open under a mohair tux.