Kris Van Assche
July 07, 2005 Paris
Volume was a key element, as in full trousers that puddled on the floor, and in a huge, gray-striped voile shirt. There were tricksy flourishes, such as trousers scrunched up and buttoned at the knee, and the designer explored asymmetry in a white suit jacket with a single shawl collar or another epauletted jacket in light gray with one dark sleeve. But the general feel was one of quietly banked fires of passionfor the finale, an accordionist played while an urgent horde of young men scuttled down the runway in white tanks, at least one bearing the image of Carlos Gardel, father of the tango.