Rachel Comey
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 10, 2005
By
The prints Rachel Comey designs for her clothes do a very good job of communicating the pleasure she gets from her work. This season, she gave them names like "pollen," "crooked garden," and "weed," but words alone fail to convey their winning charms.For instance, the "weed" print in a shirt-and-shorts combo wasn't quite tropical in its rich, dark color scheme, but it still announced summer '06 more decisively than anything else on the New York runways. "Pollen" was almost batik-like in pale gold (a shirt) and sun-bleached navy (shorts). "Crooked garden" had a Klimt-ian complexity that looked as good on a pair of girls' shoes as it did on the boys' shorts (and Speedos, which Comey incongruously paired with her signature bomber jackets).
Shorts were a major Comey theme for the collection. She called one variation "farmer," buckling the backs and buttoning the flies on the outside for a sort of rustic authenticity, while the "Dad" version was paired with a cropped, double-breasted jacket. But this was by no means hayseed chic—Comey also showed sleek Italian-cotton knits and indulged herself in exotica with some ikat prints that surfaced on her "Guatemala pants."
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