Rykiel Homme
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, July 11, 2005
By
When Sonia Rykiel's program notes talked about "revisiting St. Germain," they brought to mind the glory days of the Parisian Left Bank—that intellectual/cultural/social scene that lives on in legend (okay, make that cliché) as a hotbed of black-clad, beret-sporting, bebop-lovin' beatniks.But smoke-filled cellars were clearly the furthest thing from the designer's mind as she dressed her contemporary aesthete in the juiciest selection of colors to be seen in Paris this season. A peacoat, that beloved staple of the Sartre set, was offered in aqua, while coral trousers were paired with a fuchsia sweater over a Sonia-striped shirt and tie. And if those signature stripes (in the equally signature cotton knit) were all over the place, Rykiel's mastery of Parisian chic was equally evident—especially in a square-shouldered, double-breasted jacket in black or a punchy duck-egg blue; a little military-detailed blouson; or that perennial fave, the safari suit.
The footwear, meanwhile, was a trifle fey: a checked trench over pink jeans deserved something more than red espadrilles, and the pink Docksiders needed all the help they could get from Marios, the chiseled Greek God of the male modeling world.
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