After last season's salute to Dutch naval history, Viktor & Rolf stayed with the sturdy menfolk of the Low Countries for their new collection. Dutch farmers in their Sunday best inspired the waistcoats over full white shirts, the sober three-piece suit, the collar-and-wide tie. The washed, worn quality of the clothes hinted at proud men who don't own much, but take great care of it (just as the styling touch of rolled trousers suggested farm workers coping with a broken dike). And the designers attributed the grid pattern on shirts and sweaters to the natural geometry created by the ditches that divide farm fields in Holland.

Still, the clothes didn't stray far from the omnipresent sea in a misty, watery, color scheme of grays, blues, and white, illuminated here and there by a faded tulip red. And that ol' naval influence made itself felt in a pea jacket with a swath of braided cord, the fitted top over full trousers apparently a traditional Dutch silhouette. A heavy chintz linen provided a glamorously glossy foundation for evening looks.