"I love the American old times," said Yohji Yamamoto after his show. "It was a good moment for the American people." That made one momentarily wonder whether there might be a political subtext to Yohji's sepia-toned paean to baseball's bygone days. But what mostly came across was a nostalgic tone so un-ironic, a thank-you to Ken Burns wouldn't have been out of order. In fact, Casey himself would have been perfectly happy to wear these outfits to the bat, though he might have frowned at the proportions. When Yohji hung bloomers off a pair of suspenders, they looked like clown pants.
Away from the diamond, the designer continued with his experiments in
cutting, this time showing jackets whose seams zipped open to create
different configurations, cutaways being the most obvious. But so much was
overly familiar about the clothes (the fabrics and the oversized silhouettes
being just the start) that one was left musing on where Yohji fits into the
contemporary landscape, especially when his inspiration was anything but.
"When I touch it, everything becomes modern," he said gnomically. Maybe.
Spring 2006 Menswear
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