Alessandro Dell'Acqua
MILAN, September 29, 2005
By Sarah Mower
Alessandro Dell'Acqua channeled Marilyn for spring—her curvaceous bustier dresses, her straining pencil skirts, her crystal-spangled "Happy Birthday, Mr. President" gown, the lips, the lot. As a designer cliché, that, of course, ranks as the all-time No. 1. Still, in a season when fifties influences are still playing, Dell'Acqua just about managed to get away with it, using the ubiquitous icon as a convenient device for showcasing his view of dressing up for evening.On the runway, there was also a Helmut Newton-ish, seventies kind of slant, teetering on the brink between good taste and vulgarity. Marilyn lips—molded into Plexiglas belt clasps, scattered as prints, or turned out as pink plastic buttons on knits—came over as a bit of Pop Art fun. Shiny lacquered stretch-chiffon skirts were definitely a tad too brash, but some of the black-lace-over-nude dresses, handled with Dell'Acqua's customary sensitivity for lingerie, were delicate enough to satisfy the fashion police.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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