Andrew Gn
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 5, 2005
By Nicole Phelps
Over the course of four years in business, Andrew Gn has built himself a coterie of Upper East Side fans who keep his rich-looking coats, with their demi-couture details, flying out of Bergdorf and Bendel. Given the new direction evident in his spring collection, though, it looks like Gn has the potential to make the leap downtown—embracing the girls who are bar-hopping at the Stanton Social, as well as those who are lunching at Le Bilboquet.This season, the designer's signature coats came in black and white gabardine and crepe, sumptuously embellished with waistbands of glass beads or lace edging, while sportier versions were cut in silk toile and decorated with bohemian (by Gn's standards, at least) wooden beads. Since this is spring, he also showed off-the-shoulder smocked tops in cotton piqué or floral-print silk. For evening, patchworks of those floral prints fell in tiers to the floor, in keeping with one of the season's big trends—although the same silhouette looked more modern in a striking emerald-green chiffon.
Which brings us to the point. Gn's sexy new shoes, which made their runway debut, are proof that he has what it takes to connect with a younger generation. Now all he needs is to lose the prim styling—and lengthen his too-short skirts to the knee—and he'll be as popular below 14th Street as he is on Park Avenue.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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