Alexandre Herchcovitch
NEW YORK, September 11, 2005
By Laird Borrelli
The Brazilian designer Alexandre Herchcovitch is big on theatrics. Two seasons ago, he introduced his line in New York by building a garden on the runway. His sophomore collection featured live musicians trailing every model. This spring, he combined his favorite flourishes by using flowers, in the form of botanical prints, and a live performance from the Brooklyn-based neo-tropicalia freak-funk band Animal Collective.While the production and the clothes delivered the drama, the collection fell short in the wearability department. Puffy, tiered dresses layered over patterned tops and cinched with wide leather belts. Mad mixes of psychedelic florals with Mary Quant-style daisies (featured on a rubber skirt) clashed with an op print (whipped up into a wonderful belted trench) and a few plaids, thrown in for good measure. This collection was a trip, in every sense of the word. Even the band, surrounded by Plexiglas mushrooms, sang about hallucinogenic pills. Herchcovitch cited the "freedom movement" as his inspiration, and he succeeded in conveying a sartorial sort of sixties psychedelia, however out of step it may be with the prevailing minimal mood.
Let's hope Herchcovitch bought a round-trip ticket, and that when this journey ends, he'll return to pursue his exuberant visions with a bit more temperance.
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Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Andrew Gn Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Aquascutum As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro C-Neeon Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion East Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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L.A.M.B. Lacoste Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Libertine Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Naum Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler Project Alabama -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Roland Mouret -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Strenesse -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover Unique United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Véronique Leroy Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Who Is on Next Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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